Magic 2011

[kristijanH]

No crops in MA just fulls.

[extreme]

Good question. If you ask me, I would have dropped the crops long ago and would have opted for bigger fulls. But people ask for them and they're very easy to do.
And i didn't say we don't do stuff usable for mws, our aim are the full scans in high res. Which, as you know, are presented on magiccards.info and magic librarities.
Why did we do Archenemy then ? You can't play archenemy or planechase on mws.
Sorry, no hypocrisy here.

However, it's true that this has started as a mws card scan project years ago. But it soon became so much more.

[cell9]

Hello, and big thanks to extreme, woogerboy and asbest for all your work.Definitely worth the wait.

Quick question for you extreme, if you don`t mind? I was wondering if you had any tips on color matching the original cards with prints. I know there will be different variances with inks, printers, paper and such but wanted to see if you knew of a rough setting as far as brightness and color balance go to achieve something close to original card look.

Ive been playing with settings, and while the prints are getting better, I'm still unable to achieve the brown/yellowish aged cast of the original cards. Any tips would be much appreciated.

Once again thanks to you guys.

[Kl3p_co.]

card faking attempt detected!

[doxaios]

@cell9 what do you mean? The cards are already identical with the original cards. Why do you want to tweak something? Maybe your hardware aren't good enough to achieve a better quality.

[cell9]

hey doxaios,
Thanks for your quick reply.
The cards look great, no doubt. I also have an epson stylus r800 photo printer and photoshop so I would think I should be able to produce a quality card?

What i mean is that the cards printed "untouched" have a cold and greyer appeance than an origanal does. The originals seem to have a aged yellowed appearance. Side by side there is a difference.

When i lower brightness -20, raise cyan +20, lower yellow -20 or changes there abouts, (thats what im askinhg about) I get something closer to an origanl, still off a bit, so I was just wanting to see if anyone had dealt with this before and found the "formula".

thanks

[extreme]

as you probably know, matching color is pretty much impossible, since there are so many factors: different ink, different paper, different color profiles. In order to do that you have to have a perfectly calibrated printing system. Which only pros have.
So one solution would work for only one system, there is nothing universal. The only way in our case is trial and error.

[PresetM]

Our scans uses the RGB color model. This is suitable for showing the pictures on screen only. If you want to get a good four-color print you should use the CMYK color model instead. This is often used for high quality four-color printing.

Since RGB and CMYK spaces are both device-dependent spaces, there is no simple or general conversion formula that converts between them. Conversions are generally done through color management systems, using color profiles that describe the spaces being converted. Nevertheless, the conversions cannot be exact, particularly where these spaces have different gamuts. [from Wikipedia].

So things are not easy.
Good luck

[woogerboy21]

I also have an epson stylus r800 photo printer and photoshop so I would think I should be able to produce a quality card?

Did you manage to get things worked out? I wanted to mention I own 3 printers. 1 being the epson r800 and though this printer was great for family photo's when starting out printing proxies it (as well as my cannon inkjet) seemed to experience similar issue's that you describe. The epson had more darker / color tint or hue issues than the cannon. I eventually gave up on trying to print proxies on my epson and focused on my cannon. Which I managed to get pretty close to the original color look but never could get the crisp or clarity desired around text and edges using an inkjet printer. Which lead me to purchase my 3rd printer. A brother color laser. It is doing WAY better than either inkjet and requires almost no color adjustments to get the color tones correct.

One other thing to mention is I noticed there was a difference in outcomes based on the applications I was using. I never tried photoshop myself but being afairly well known application I would think you should be able to just about do anything to the image with it. After trying various applications I eventually just settle on a fairly simple template I created in openoffice. Good luck on your proxy creation. Its all about trial and error until you can get an easily reproducable result that your happy with.

[Huggybaby]

You would actually need some hardware to read a test print and make a specific color profile.

From wikipedia:

The ICC profile for a printer is created by comparing a test print result using a photometer with the original reference file. The testchart contains known CMYK colors, whose offsets to their actual L*a*b colors scanned by the photometer are resulting in an ICC profile. Another possibility to ICC profile a printer is to use a calibrated scanner as the measuring device for the printed CMYK testchart instead of a photometer. A calibration profile is necessary for each printer/paper/ink combination.

This will do it: http://spyder.datacolor.com/product-pp-s3printsr.php

If you calibrate your printer you should calibrate your monitor too so that what you see onscreen will be what you see from your printer.

Nate's Card Generator is designed to make printable proxies and the results from it are liable to be sharper than our screen optimized versions.

If you wanted to make a REALLY exact copy you'd print from an untouched scan because neither NCMG or the HQ pics include the print screen dots.